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August 22, 2019 India, Jammu & Kashmir, Ladakh 3 Comments

A once in a lifetime trip to Ladakh

Ladakh is the land of monasteries, gorgeous panoramic views,135km long Pangong lake and highest motorable road in the world. Well, it is as dreamy as it is shown in movies and photographs. This land has lots of surprises for you at every turn of the road.

I might have not traveled everywhere in India but Ladakh is certainly the most amazing places among all I have visited yet. Ladakh once an inaccessible region is now one of the most desired places for Indians as well as international tourists.

 As tourism grows in Ladakh and Pangong Lake, the region is getting swamped with trash. Tourists often dump disposable water bottles and food packets right at the periphery of the lake and even inside. This is posing a big threat to this region. We, as travelers have some responsibility toward nature. Let’s not make Ladakh another victim of plastic pollution.

 Days required– Road trip requires 10-15 days and if you take a flight to Leh, then you will need 5-7 days.

 Nearby places to go – Pangong Lake, Nubra Valley

 Best time to visit – This need to be planned well.

 October to march – The coldest season of the region and winters here are not like rest of the country. The temperature drops to -20 degrees in January. Everything shuts down and the roads are closed. Famous Chaadar Trek on frozen Zanskar river is done in this season. It is not advisable to visit the region in this season.

 April to June– beginning of the tourist season. Ice starts to melt and hotels, camps, and guesthouses start to function on well-discounted prices. However, Roads/Highway to the region are still closed. You will need to take a flight to reach Leh.

 June to September – this marks the peak tourist season of Leh-Ladakh. Roads start to open in the last week of June with ongoing maintenance process, so good condition roads should not be expected initially. July-August is the month best for self-drive trips. Also, the Hemis Festival is usually around this time of the year.

*Rainfall in Ladakh region is usually scanty and unpredictable. Many regions come under the shadow of the mountain ranges. August is mainly the monsoon month but we didn’t observe any rainfall anywhere during our trip.

 How to reach – Thanks to the Border Roads Organization (BRO) now we have multiple options to reach Ladakh. You can start your trip from Delhi, Srinagar, Chandigarh or Manali.

  1. By Air – Delhi to Leh and then back to Delhi for short trips (5-7 days). Take a direct flight from Delhi to Leh for the astounding aerial view.
  2. By road – There are two routes to reach Leh. One is via Manali and other is via Srinagar. We completed the circuit reaching Leh via Manali Highway and returning via Srinagar route.

Of course, It takes longer by road but one can cut it short by taking flight one side.

If you have 10 days then do the road trip from Delhi-Manali-Leh-Srinagar and then take a flight from Srinagar to Delhi.

How we traveled – We booked a 12-day group trip to Ladakh from Delhi managed by Alifetimetrip (I highly recommend this tour agency for Ladakh trip. Gaurav and Nidhi did great in planning the trip and booked very comfortable stays.).

We avoid the self-drive trip because of safety concerns and avoided air route because we didn’t want to miss the beautiful landscape on the way to Leh.

The route we used –Delhi-Manali-Jispa-Leh-Nubra-Pangong-Kargil-Srinagar-Delhi(from Srinagar we took a flight to Delhi to complete our journey). This route has many advantages over all other routes as the complete circuit would be more time consuming and more tiring.

Also, we didn’t miss the beautiful landscape of Manali-Jispa-Keylong-Sarchu on the way.

 Where to stay – you can easily book your stays in Delhi and Manali according to your budget. I will mention Hotels/camps in and around Leh.

Leh – Luxury stay options – Grand Dragon is the only luxury hotel in Leh. You can book the Royal Family palace Stok Palace for an unforgettable experience.

Budget stays- you can get a variety of guest houses, homestays, hostel and budget hotels in Leh. Changspa Road has everything you need – money exchange, departmental store, medical store, roadside eateries, restaurants, and hotels.

Jispa-  Gemur Holiday Camps –  With mountains in the background and river in the front, these camps are located on the main highway. They have very comfortable camps with all basic amenities.

Nubra – Cold Desert Camp – my favorite stay during my Leh trip. Have a look at this campsite online. They are off-road with the mountains on the backside and river in the front.

Pangong – Redstart camps – walking distance from Pangong Lake.

 How to go around – If you have your bike or car, then you can roam around at your own pace otherwise renting a car or bike in Leh is very common and easy. You just need to have a driving license and deposit money.

Chauffer driven car are also easily available. When you will explore the Leh market, you will see colorful boards outside every other shop displaying packages for Pangong or Nubra or sometimes even an extra seat along with the other groups. Search for a good deal around the market and you are good to go.

 Places to visit –

Leh Palace – a splendid example of Tibetan architecture, this structure is almost a ruin now.

Shanti Stupa- This white structure is easily recognizable from a distance in Leh. It was built by Japanese and ladakhis to promote world peace. Go around the evening time to witness the beautiful sunset.

Hall of Fame – This museum was built in the memory of Martyrs of Kargil war. There are a Flag retreat ceremony and a sound and light show in the evening.

3 Idiots School

Khardung-La –  famously known as the highest motorable pass in the world. Though a nightmare for drivers, still it is every biker’s dream to drive on this road.

Chang-La – This pass lies on the way to Pangong from Leh. At an altitude of about 17500ft, this pass will test your driving skills.

Diskit Monastery – the oldest and the largest monastery of the Leh-Ladakh region. It has a 100ft high statue of Lord Buddha which was inaugurated by HH Dalai Lama.

Spituk Monastery – An almost 900yrs old building with a giant statue of Maa Kaali. This can be covered in Leh sightseeing tour as it is very near to the main city.

Hemis Monastery – a trip to Leh is incomplete without visiting this one. This is the most popular Monastery in the region and is very famous for the Hemis Festival organized in June-July every year.

Thiksey Monastery – located on the top of a hill from where you can enjoy the panoramic view of Indus valley.

Moonland(Lamayuru) –  Situated on Srinagar-Leh Highway, this region has moon-like topography and is very famous among shutterbugs. It is also home to one of the oldest monastery in Ladakh.

Magnetic Hill- This road is named so because it defies the gravity and the vehicle moves uphill when parked at a particular spot.

Nubra Valley – another must-visit place during Ladakh trip. This valley has everything you would ask for – vast dunes, orchards, colorful mountains, panoramic views, and rivers.

Double hump camel ride in Nubra

Pangong Lake (Pangong Tso) – well, everyone knows this place. The crystal clear blue water lake was shown in movie 3 IDIOTS which caused the real boom in the tourism industry of Ladakh. This lake is partially located in India (40%) and China(60%). It gets frozen in winter and starts to melt in April-May.

Pangong Lake

Moriri Lake (Tso Moriri) – this is the less commercialized and lesser-known version of Pangong lake.

 Where to eat – On the way to Leh, you will get Lemon honey tea, Maggi, Rajma chawal and Parantha on the roadside dhabas. Now you can find eateries everywhere on the way to Leh. Locals have opened small restaurants along the highway as tourism is flourishing in this region.

In Leh, do try Thupka (noodles soup served with vegetables or meat), Momos, Mokthuk (a superb blend of momos and soup).

Itinerary –

We had booked our tour 2 months before our journey with 8 people in the group – one couple from Bengaluru and one couple from Mumbai. Alifetimetrip made a WhatsApp group(we are still in contact with each other through that group) for us a week before the trip to address our queries and for providing any important information. We all reached Delhi a couple of days before the trip and explored Delhi at our own pace. You can read about Delhi travel blog from the website.

Day 1 – Delhi to Manali

Seats in an evening Volvo bus were booked between Delhi and Manali. Alternatively, one can conveniently hire a bike/SUV from Manali, Chandigarh or Delhi.

Day 2

We reached Manali in the morning and were transferred to our Hotel. We took some rest, had breakfast and got ready to explore the city. We had 1 day for Manali and we covered all the famous tourist destinations – Hadimba Temple, Vashishth Temple, Solang valley (you can enjoy paragliding here but because of rainfall all activities were canceled that day). We had our lunch at one of the famous cafes in Old Manali named Johnson’s Cafe and returned to the hotel by evening. Our fellow travelers, Vinit and Monali went out to explore more of the city but we chose to eat at the Hotel’s restaurant as we were exhausted.

Day 3 Manali to Jispa

Next morning after breakfast, we started our journey to Jispa via Rohtang Pass (it usually opens at the end of June) in a 12-seater Tempo Traveller. Leh- Manali road trip is approx. 500 km and cannot be covered in a day-light time. So a night stay either at Jispa, Keylong or Sarchu is required. On the way, we understood why our tour operator Nidhi said – If you sleep during the journey, you will regret it. It was a 6-hour journey and we reached our riverside campsite by 3-4 pm. It is a tiny village on the Manali-Leh highway popular among travelers for the night stay. We enjoyed our tea sitting around with the view of the beautiful mountain and river.

Day 4 Jispa to Leh

We covered this long and tiring journey in a day, it usually takes 12 hours to reach Leh from Jispa. The road starts getting worse from here but the terrain is so gorgeous which will compel you to make multiple stops on the way. Take proper sleep and start your journey early in the morning. It is advised to drive 4×4 or SUV or mountain bikes here. Don’t be overconfident on roads with overlooking steep cliffs. There are few places on the route for food and stay which are pretty basic but will do the job. Toilets are a rare luxury here in Leh and that too, clean ones, you will have to pay Rs.5-10 to use these toilets. We reached Leh in the evening and were feeling exhausted already while walking to our room (Leh is at an altitude of 11000 ft) and thus were told to take rest. We had our buffet dinner at the Hotel.

Day 5 Leh sightseeing

After breakfast, we left for the Leh city tour. Don’t overburden yourself on the first day in Leh. Give your body time to acclimatize. We explored the Rancho School, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa and Hall of fame that day.

Day 6 Nubra valley

Then came the day, we all were waiting for- a 6-7 hour journey from Leh to reach Nubra via Khardung-la. Do wear multiple layers of woolen clothes as chilling weather is almost always expected because of high altitude. Unexpectedly, we found a traffic jam on Khardung-La. We had Maggi and soup at the canteen maintained by the army and had ourselves clicked with the Khardung-La Signboard. You can enjoy the snow-clad mountains and play with snow here as snow doesn’t melt here completely even during summer. The landscape in Nubra is breathtaking and surreal. Here you will come across vast sand dunes of the cold desert where you can ride Bactrian (Double Hump) Camels. There are apple orchids, colorful mountain ranges, and an oasis as well which are quite suitable for a fairly nice Instagram ready picture. Nubra has all variety of accommodations- homestays, hotels, cottages but I recommend to book riverside camp. We reached our camp and took some rest. The network coverage here was poor so, hotel staff landed their phones so that we could call home. They cooked delicious meals for us and told us stories about the valley.

Day 7 Nubra to Leh

On the way back to Leh, we visited the famous Diskit Monastery. From the top, you will get a panoramic view of the region. There lies the gigantic 100 ft statue of Maitreya Buddha. You can explore the Leh Main Market in the evening and buy souvenirs for your family.

Day 8 Pangong lake trip – a 6-7 hour journey via Chang-La will bring you to The Poster Boy of Ladakh tourism. Just before the campsite, you will reach the place where the last scenes of movie 3 idiots were shot. This large saline water lake extends to China. The lake looks like a perfectly painted picture. The beauty of this place will instill your belief in magic. The beds in the camp had a few layers of quilts laid over them and, we wondered why someone would need four layers of them!! But we happily just slid under those quilts at 8 pm after getting our brains frozen by the chilling winds from the lake despite the huge Bonfire.

Day 9 – We headed back to Leh after breakfast next morning but before that, we stared at the blue water for an hour. On the way, you can visit the Hemis Monastery.

Day 10 – Start your journey to Kargil. Here you have the option of ending the trip by taking a flight back to Delhi. On the way, we visited Gurudwara Patharsahib, Magnetic hill and Sangam (water of river Indus and Zanskar meet at this place making an incredible sight). We reached Kargil by evening and went to see the Indo-Pak border village (last village near Indo Pak border- Hunderman). The cab driver was our guide here. He showed us Indian and Pak army bunkers and posts that were used in Kargil war and the last village on our side and their side. Binoculars are available there at a small shop for rent. There we met the lovely cheery red-cheeked kids from the village who got excited to the visitors. We shared food and clicked pictures with them as a memory of this beautiful tiny village.

Sangam at Zanskar

Day 11 – We checked out early or we would not be able to cross Drass Army Post after a certain time of the day (after 9-10 am). Ask your hotel manager or locals for the exact timing. You will reach Zozilla Memorial after a few hours. Here we had breakfast at Army canteen and visit Zozilla Memorial built in the memory of martyrs of 1st Indo-Pak war. The army officers were very polite and kind to host us. They sat down with us and told us the stories of 1st Indo-Pak war and Kargil war. We reached Srinagar early in the evening and wished goodbye to our guide Tenzin after he helped us in checking in our Houseboat on Dal Lake(you can read my houseboat experience in Kerala and Srinagar in a different blog). In the evening, we enjoyed the famous Shikara ride and shopping at floating Meena Bazaar.

Day 12 – After breakfast, we drove for Srinagar Airport for our Delhi flight. Leave 3 hours before your flight time as there are multiple security checks at Srinagar Airport. Also, carry a photocopy of your tickets with you.

 Quick tips for fellow travelers –

  1. Roads to and around Leh-Ladakh are not in very good conditions, at least to what we are used to. They are very risky and dangerous. People who want to plan a road trip must not only be good bikers but also physically sound enough to survive the harsh climate of Ladakh.
  2. Anyone below 10 years of age and above 60 years should avoid this trip.
  3. Anyone with respiratory, heart or backache problem should avoid this trip.
  4. If you are planning a self-drive trip, don’t go solo. You will need help there.
  5. Prepare a medicine kit with all necessary medicines (Diamox – Acetazolamide 250mg is helpful in case of altitude sickness. We carried it but didn’t require)
  6. Carry good quality woolen clothes, gloves, socks, head cap, and shoes.
  7. Rather than wearing one heavy woolen jacket, wear clothing in multiple layers as it provides better insulation.
  8. Tourists going by flight need to spend a day acclimatizing themselves for the high altitude (Leh and most of the places in Ladakh are located above 10,000 feet which commonly leads to the dizziness, headaches, vomiting or AMS among the travelers. Hence it is necessary to accustom yourself with lesser availability of oxygen by spending more time and this process is known as Acclimatization.). Take proper rest and keep yourself hydrated on Day 1.
  9. Tandi is the last petrol pump after Manali. It is approximately 110 km from Manali. Do not forget to tank up here as you have roughly 345 km to cover without a single petrol pump. Next petrol pump is in Karu, 30 km before Leh. Take a 10-20 liter can with you for extra fuel.
  10. Don’t use Google for direction and time reference. Also, there will no 3G/4G connectivity in Leh (poor network connectivity is an issue. Use BSNL postpaid connection. Prepaid connections don’t work in J&K).
  11. Use sunscreen lotion (at least 50 SPF) otherwise you will get severe sunburn.

Ratings (it is subjective and my personal opinion)

Destination overall rating 10/10 – I find no reason to give this place rating less than 10.

Expanse 5/10 – a bit expensive if you book flights or do a personalized tour. Expenses reduce if you are planning a self-drive or group trip.

Travel ease 6/10 – The terrain is no doubt is difficult than any other place in India. Most of the tourist will not prefer the self-drive way to reach Leh. They have the option of group tours, customized tours. You can reach by flights. You can easily book trips to Nubra and Pangong from Leh.

Food 6/10 – I tried Tibetan cuisine but it is too bland for my Indian palate.

Alwar, India, Rajasthan 7 Comments

Alwar-Sariska Trip

Alwar, one of the oldest city of Rajasthan lies in the lap of Aravali ranges and is very near to my home city Jaipur. Since childhood, we had known Alwar for “Kalakand/milk cake” and “Bhangarh” the most haunted place in India.

Here I will be telling some more details of the place which I have visited several times.

Days required – 2 days. One can plan a weekend trip from Delhi and Jaipur.

Nearby places to go – Sariska, Bhangarh, Abhaneri

Best time to visit – During monsoon and winter (October to February)

How to reach – Alwar is 185km from Delhi and 165 km from Jaipur.

By train – It is the fastest way to reach Alwar from Jaipur and Delhi.

By air – Alwar doesn’t have an airport. Delhi Airport and Jaipur Airport are the nearest ones.

By road – usually preferred by visitors from Delhi and Jaipur. One can easily hire a cab/taxi or self-drive as the road to Alwar is in very good condition.

Buses are available but they are not comfortable.

How we traveled – We have been to Alwar several times. Once we took a train from Jaipur (available every 2-3 hours from Jaipur) and the other time, we did a road trip to Bhangarh.

Where to stay – Alwar city has many budget hotels in and around the city. You also have the option of staying at luxurious resorts and Heritage hotels. You need to have your vehicle/taxi as these hotels are far from the city.

Neemrana fort Palace, Tijara Fort Palace and Hill Fort at Kesroli are few examples. There is an RDTC hotel on Siliserh Lake. Once a hunting Lodge, this heritage hotel gives an amazing view of Lake.

How to go around – If you have your vehicle then you can roam around the city easily otherwise hire a cab/taxi.

Places to visit

Sariska Tiger Reserve – One of the most visited place in Alwar, Sariska is home to Bengal Tigers, Indian leopard, jackal, sambhar and many other wildlife. It is a 1-hour drive from Alwar.

Sariska

Siliserh Lake – 15 km from Alwar on the way to Sariska was the main water source in Alwar. Siliserh Palace built by Maharaja Vinay Singh is now converted to a heritage hotel.

Siliserh Lake

Bhangarh Fort – Fort and town of Bhangarh are one of the most haunted places in India.

Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatriyan – This cenotaph was built in the memory of Maharani Moosi of Alwar. The monument looks splendid with white marble dome and red stone pillars.

Moosi Maharani ki Chhatriyan

Bala Qila- Also known as Alwar fort, this is the oldest structure in Alwar. Built on a hill, this fort gives the amazing view of the city from above.

Bala Qila

City Palace Museum – Once the residence of the royal family, most of the area is now converted into Government offices. There is a museum inside the premises which has a rare collection of Arabian, Persian and Sanskrit manuscripts.

Where to eat – There is not much to describe here but you can still have some Indian delicacies in Alwar.

  1. Alwar ka Kalakand/milk cake – Though you can find milk cake anywhere in Alwar but buy the original tasty Alwar mawa from Baba Thakurdas and sons.
  2. Have a delicious Indian food at Prem Pavitra Bhojnalaya and Inderlok.

Itinerary –

We stayed at our friend Kailash’s house in Alwar and he was the one who picked us up from the railway station. We used the weekend for the trip. On Friday, after my duty hours, we took the train to Alwar and reached his house by late evening. In dinner, we ate delicious home-cooked chicken (Only dish that I can make other than Maggi).

Next day after breakfast, we took his car visited Siliserh Lake in the morning. There is Siliserh Lake Palace built on it and any other person not staying there need to pay Rs.100 as an entry fee. We parked our car and reached their restaurant from where you can enjoy the panoramic view of the valley and the lake. We decided to have some tea and sandwiches there. Food was just average but we stayed there for an hour just because of the amazing view. You can also go for water activities like speed boat and boating.

After that, we went for Sariska Tiger Reserve for Jungle Safari. I had already booked tickets online in advance. Booking evening safari is more convenient as you have to reach one hour early to get the boarding pass which has to be collected through the ticketing counter. The only relief for people like us was that queue for collecting boarding pass was much shorter than that for the ticket. All this was poorly managed as counter opened late and safari started almost 60-90 minute late than the scheduled time. There were a canteen, souvenir shop and toilets at the booking center and a big parking area. Few kilometers before the booking center, we visited the Bharthari Temple. We could not see the Tigers that day as expected. I had visited Ranthambore National Park seven times to spot the tiger ( Read my blog on Ranthambore to get all the details).

Day 2

We decided to go for the city tour. First, we went to Bala Quila. You need to have your car or you can hire a taxi/cab/auto. There is Rs.50 entry fee for vehicle and Rs.10 per person. I was excited after driving on the route as we could see the green valley while ascending for the fort but after reaching there, we were disappointed as there is nothing to explore there. It was poorly maintained and was under renovation when we visited. Hope it will worth watching in future. We then visited the City palace complex. Now this place confused us. It was in the heart of the city. Most of the complex is converted to Govt. Offices, Secretariat and the Court. We confirmed twice before parking our car that we were in the right place. Still, there is the City Palace Museum and Cenotaph (Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri). Cenotaph is behind the City Palace.

On the way to Bala Qila

We had lunch in the city and then boarded the train for Jaipur.

*We had visited Bhangarh Fort in a different trip but you can go there after the city tour.

Quick tips for fellow travelers –

  1. Book Sariska Tiger Safari online from an official government site in advance otherwise you have to stand in a long queue at the booking center and there are chances that you may not get a seat.
  2. Even after booking online, you have to take boarding pass from the ticketing counter. For morning safari, it can be taken one day before and for evening safari, it can be taken the same day one hour before safari time.
  3. There are 2 gates in Sariska Tiger Reserve- Sariska gate (gate 1) and Tehla(gate 2) gate. Prefer Sariska gate as it is the older one and with more facilities. Tehla gate is newer gate and less preferred by tourists and tour agencies.
  4. Inside the Tiger Reserve, there is a famous Pandupol Temple which can be visited by private vehicles on every Tuesday and Saturday.

Ratings (it is subjective and my personal opinion)

Destination overall rating 7/10 – Siliserh, Sariska, and Bhangarh are must-see places here.

Travel Expense 1/10 – one of my least expansive trip as I didn’t pay for any accommodation or food here.

Travel ease 7.5/10 – You need to have a vehicle to explore the place as Siliserh, Bala Qila and Sariska all are at distant places.

Food 7/10 – Do buy milk cake for your friends and family.

Ajmer, India, Rajasthan Post a Comment

Road Trip to Ajmer-Pushkar

Ajmer gets its name from Ajay Meru meaning “invincible hill” and is a major pilgrimage in Rajasthan. I somehow managed to convince my whole family for Sunday road trip.

Days required – 1-2 days

Nearby places to go – Pushkar

Best time to visit – monsoon and winter season (October to February). Pushkar Fair (very famous cattle fair) usually happens in November.

How to reach –

By Air – Kishangarh Airport is 30 KM from the Ajmer city but has limited connectivity. A direct flight from Delhi is available.

By Train – Ajmer is well connected to all major cities in India by rail route.

By Road – Ajmer is joined to all cities in North India by road. Delhi is connected to Ajmer by expressway.

How we traveled – We did a Sunday road trip with the family. It was a 2-hour drive from Jaipur.

Where to stay – Though we didn’t stay in Ajmer, I can suggest you some of the best options available there. Don’t stay in Ajmer. Pushkar has wide astonishing options of luxurious resorts to stay. Westin Resort is a 5-star property and best among all resorts in Pushkar. Other options are Ananta, Aaram Bagh, and Dera Masuda.

How to go around – Ajmer is a small city and can easily be covered by auto-rickshaws which are easily available around the city. You can also hire cabs/taxi for the whole day.

Places to visit:

Ajmer Sharif Dargah – Very famous shrine of Khwaja Moin-ud-din Chishti visited by Muslims and Non-Muslims alike is in the old city. You must park your vehicle and then walk some distance through the narrow lanes of the old city to reach the shrine.

Ana Sagar – Built by the Chauhan rulers and later improvised by Mughal Emperors, this is the major tourist attraction for people visiting Ajmer.

Nasiya Jain Temple – This astounding example of architecture dedicated to Lord Adinath is made of red stones. One section of the temple is dedicated for prayers and another section has a museum and a hall decorated with gold plated figures and glasswork.

Nareli Jain Temple – Situated on the Ajmer-Jaipur highway, this is the main point of pilgrimage for Digambar Jains.

Adhai Din ka Jhopda – Originally a Sanskrit college and later converted to a mosque, this is the elderly structure of the Ajmer is the perfect blend of Indo-Islamic architecture.

Taragarh Fort was built to guard the Ajmer city and home of the Chauhan rulers, this is one of the oldest forts of India.

Mayo College – One of the oldest and prestigious boarding schools in India is the perfect example of Indo-Saracenic architecture. It started with an ambition to provide education to Indian Princes that matches the standard of England.

Foy Sagar Lake – Built to remove the water scarcity in Ajmer region, this man-made lake was designed by architect Mr. Foy. It imparts a very beautiful view of the Aravali Range.

Pushkar – 13 km from the Ajmer city, it attracts thousands of devotees from all over the country. It is said that Pushkar is the ultimate pilgrimage that must be undertaken to attain salvation. There are hundreds of temples in Pushkar. One should not miss visiting Pushkar Lake, Brahma Temple, Savitri Temple, and Varaha Temple. Brahma temple, Savitri Temple and Varaha Temple are one of its kind dedicated to Lord Brahma, Goddess Savitri and Varaha incarnation of Lord Vishnu.

Pushkar Lake

Where to eat–

Pushkar is food heaven for vegetarians. Yes, you heard it right. You will not find meat serving outlets here, not even eggs but that doesn’t mean you will not have many options. Pushkar has a blend of Indian and Hippie culture, thanks to many international tourists visiting here mainly Israelis. They roam around the town as if they belong to this place (and maybe some are). You will find falafel as easily as Kachori in Pushkar.

Desi Khana

Poha Pizza Pakwan is the fusion dish of Pushkar Breakfast corner and If you are late to reach here, then you might not get a chance to taste it.

Malpua of Sarvadia Sweet House is a must-try sweet dish.

Shree Karni Maa Restaurant – a small restaurant serves the tasty Desi Rajasthani thali.

Videshi Khana

La Pizzaeria Garden Restaurant makes the best pizza in the town.

Ganga Restaurant serves the Falafel in a desi style.

Do try juices or better to say the fusion of juices at Sonu Juice centre.

Itinerary – Jaipur is our home town, so we have visited almost every other city in Rajasthan multiple times. This was our family Road trip to offer prayers at Pushkar. I suggest you make a 2 day trip to Ajmer and spend one day each at Ajmer and Pushkar. They are just 30 minutes apart.

Day 1 – Visit all point of your interest in Ajmer by the evening and spend your evening at Anasagar. Stay in Ajmer in any budget hotel.

Day 2 – Reach Pushkar in the morning and visit Lake and temple by noon and check-in your Luxury Resort and enjoy the evening around the pool with Aravali ranges in the background.

We started our trip early in the morning as we had to cover Ajmer and Pushkar and come back home on the same day. We were 10 members in 2 cars. Highway to Ajmer is 6-lane but there is a traffic of heavy vehicles, so it took us two and a half hours to reach Ajmer and we headed straight for Ajmer Sharif Dargah. We had to park way ahead because it is a very congested area. There is private parking charging Rs.50-100 for a vehicle. We crossed the narrow lane to Dargah’s main gate, washed our face and hands and went to offer prayers inside Dargah. Beware of frauds, pickpocketers and touts there.

Nasiyan Jain Temple is very close to Dargah. Here some areas are not open for the general public. You can still visit the Museum inside. Our next stop was Anasagar. Lake and garden inside are well maintained. You will see a huge crowd there on weekends enjoying Sunday picnic there.

Our last stop was Pushkar Dham which was a 30-minute drive from Ajmer. On the way, we stop by to see the recently built monument of Maharana Pratap with his horse Chetak. Many people were stopping there to enjoy the panoramic view of the valley.

4 wheelers are to be parked outside the main market and then we had to walk through the market to reach the Lake and the temple. The market was full of food outlets serving Indian, Italian and Lebanese cuisines. It is amazing to see so many Firangis among the crowd, I had no idea that Pushkar was so popular among them. They were many doing Yog and performing Pujas around Lake and riding the bike on the market road. We visited Brahma Mandir and Pushkar lake and performed Puja there as a couple (it was our first visit here after marriage).

There are hundreds of temples nearby, but we couldn’t visit them as we had to reach home by night. It was a short road trip to Pushkar, but I have tried to give all relevant information to plan for your trip here.

Outside Brahma Temple

Quick tips for fellow travelers –

  1. Avoid visiting Ajmer-Pushkar from March to July as the weather is quite hot and the temperature may even cross 48 degrees.
  2. Avoid touts and beggars at Pushkar and Ajmer Sharif Dargah.

Ratings (it is subjective and based on personal opinion)

Destination overall rating 7/10 – You get to see everything on this trip – Lakes, Temples, Shrine, historical monuments, desert safari and luxury at Resort stay.

Travel Expense 1/10 – if you don’t stay in any of the resorts in Pushkar, this trip will cost you almost nothing.

Travel ease 8/10 – Ajmer is easily accessible and can comfortably be explored by auto-rickshaw or taxis.

Food 8/10 – Pushkar provides you the fusion of Indian, Italian and Lebanese cuisines. You can get Malpua and Falafel on the same lane.

India, Rajasthan, Sambhar 1 Comment

Trip to Rajasthan’s “Rann Of Kutch”

Sambhar lake is India’s Largest inland salt lake. I used to see this lake from our train journey to Jodhpur.  I decided to plan a day trip to our own mini “Rann Of Kutch” with my family.

Days required– Day trip (If you planning for night camping or star gazing then plan accordingly)

Nearby places to go – Shakambari Mata Temple

Best time to visit – October to February. It is better to avoid summer (temperature rising to 45 degrees) and monsoon season (you will not be able to enjoy driving on white sand and camping is also not possible at that time).

How to reach – Sambhar is 80 km from Jaipur city. You can self-drive or hire a taxi/cab from the city. Follow the Google map. There are two routes to reach there – one is Jaipur-Jobner-Phulera-Sambhar and another one is Jaipur-Ajmer Highway to Sambhar. You can choose any of them.

Nearest airport is Sanganer Airport, Jaipur.

Sambhar town has a railway station which is on the Jaipur-Jodhpur Rail route.

Where to stay – We didn’t stay there as Jaipur is just 2-hour drive from here. If you are planning for camping here, you have to bring your camping equipment. I don’t think you will need permission for night stay there but surely there is a safety concern as, after dark, this place becomes scary.

There are few guesthouses on highway and Phulera for night stay. There is Sambhar Heritage Resort in the town for your comfortable stay.

How to go around – You will need a car to explore and enjoy the place. Use Google maps until you reach near Sambhar. Don’t enter the town. Follow the signboard for Shakambari Mata Temple. On the way, you will see heaps of salt, a small train, and track solely for the salt production purpose. From the temple, you will see vast plain covered with white sand with no animal or any vegetation. Near the temple, turn your car into this white sparkling land where you will find no road but you can follow tyre marks or make your own.

Activities to do–

Visit Shakambari Mata Mandir – Visit the temple built on a hilltop by the Chauhan Rulers of this region centuries ago. It is devoted to Shakambari Devi.

Driving on the Salt Lake – Enjoy driving on the long stretches of white sand with no one to interrupt you.

Night Camping- Away from all the chaos and pollution of the city, enjoy camping with your friends.

Photography and star gazing – Don’t forget to bring your tripod, lenses, and telescope to enjoy the unobscured view of the night sky with zillions of sparkling stars. This is an unexplored paradise for photography enthusiasts and stargazers with almost zero pollution and clear sky.

Bird Watching – Sambhar is a Ramsar site( wetlands where thousands of pink flamingo and other birds migrate from northern Asia)

Where to eat– Arrange for your meals before reaching Sambhar. You may find some small Dhabas on the way. Carry food and water along with you. You will have to go to Sambhar town for the supplies. Better to purchase them beforehand. We took home-cooked food with us and had Aloo-puri-pakoda picnic somewhere near the Sambhar.

Quick tips for fellow travelers –

  1. No restaurants/dhabas are there around Sambhar Lake. You may find something to eat in Sambhar town or on the highway so make arrangements accordingly.
  2. If you are planning a night out in camps there, then you are on your own. This concept is new at least in this part of the country. Bring your supplies for the night.
  3. Plan your camping around new moon night for star gazing and night photography.

Ratings (it is subjective and my personal opinion)

Destination overall rating 7/10 – This place is still unexplored and under-rated but that is the reason why this area is saved from being converted into piles of garbage.

Travel Expense 1/10 – You just need a car, a camera, and food.

Travel ease 8/10 – Public transport is available but not preferred by visitors. You can easily reach this place by car.

Food 1/10 – Carry your food supplies from the city and as no restaurants are available near the Lake.

Himachal Pradesh, India, Shimla 3 Comments

Shimla – Why planned trips are always better than unplanned ones!!!

This trip was spontaneous and one of the disastrous one. Read the itinerary and learn from our mistakes. I had no time to research and blindly followed what taxi driver suggested us and wasted time and money.

Days required– 4 days

Nearby places to go – Manali/Kullu, Chail, Kufri, Naldehra/Tatapani

Best time to visit – anytime whatever suits you but please avoid summer vacation time (June) as there is a heavy inflow of tourists that may spoil your schedule and mood. People who want to relish snowfall might visit in January-February.

How to reach –

By road – Direct buses are available from Delhi (8hours) and Chandigarh (4 hours). Route from Chandigarh is very scenic, and roads are in good condition. This is the most common, convenient and cheap way to reach Shimla.

By train – Take narrow gauge train from Kalka railway station to enjoy the toy train ride to Shimla (UNESCO World Heritage site). It’s a once in lifetime journey which will ride through tunnels, bridges and spectacular views of Himalayas.

By air –The Shimla Airport has limited connectivity. A direct flight from Delhi is available. Shimla airport is 20km away from the city.

How we traveled – We reached Shimla by Volvo bus from Jaipur-very long tiring journey of 20hours. Here from the new bus stand, there is taxi service to reach the city. Rates are fixed by the taxi union.

Where to stay – Taxi drops you at Court parking area near mall road. From there, you walk to your hotel so book your hotel accordingly. Most preferred location is Mall Road.

How to go around – You have book a cab which will take Rs.1500-2500 depending on the tour and your bargaining skills.

Activities to do

  1. Kalka Shimla train journey -This historic toy train crosses 105 tunnels and many beautiful rail & road stations.
  2. Ice skating /Skiing- Shimla has the only natural ice-skating rink in South Asia. Visit in January and February for ice skating. Kufri also has fun parks where you can enjoy skiing.
  3. Shopping on Mall Road – Shimla has the most happening Mall road, which comprises several restaurants, clubs, bars, shops, bakeries, etc.

Places to visit –

Mall road – Take a stroll on Mall road. Enjoy food, shopping and view from here. It lies below the Ridge.

Mall Road

The ridge – At the centre of the city, is the Ridge which is a large open space expanding along the Mall road. There is an amazing view of Snow-clad mountains. On the extreme west, lies the Scandal Point.

The Ridge and the Church

Christ Church – Located on the Ridge, this Church, and the Ridge are part of many Bollywood scenes.

Jakhoo hill/temple – 2km from town, lies the Jakhoo hill which is home to 100 feet Hanuman Ji Statue. Beware of bunches of fearless monkeys present there, they will snatch anything from your hand. Do carry stick along with you.

Jakhoo Temple

Johnnie’s Wax Museum – This one is new in the list. This wax museum is now among must-visit spot in Shimla. It is located near the lift on Mall road.

Iron Man with Iron Lady

Indian Institute of Advance study – Pay a visit to this colonial-era building.

Now I am listing day trips from Shimla. These are located at a distance from the town but worth visiting. Pick your tour accordingly.

Chail – Here lies the world’s biggest Cricket Stadium and Maharaja Bhupinder Singh’s Palace hotel.

Kufri – A must-visit place if you are visiting Shimla during the winter season. You can enjoy skiing there. It also has a fun park and a zoo.

Go-karting in Kufri

Naldehra/Tatapani – Tatapani has hot spring water emerging near river Sutlej. People enjoy taking a bath in this water, containing sulfur. Although this place is polluted and overcrowded. Also, there is river rafting activity. On the way, you will cross Naldehra, one of the oldest Golf course ground. This tour can be missed as rafting is not worth it and overpriced.

Where to eat –

  • Sitaram and sons: Chhola Bhatura
  • Golgappa stall, Navbhar Chowk: Pani puri
  • Bihari Lal Sharma Stall, Takka Bench, above the Ridge – fruit chat
  • Aunty’s Dhaba – Chinese food

Itinerary

Day 1

After check-in the hotel and having some rest, we could not stop ourselves from walking across the famous Mall road. It was peak season and some kind of festival/carnival was going on there on mall road which brought a huge crowd there. We were following the crowd, watching roadside shops-old one and new brand stores. We reached the RIDGE, took some astonishing photographs near Church and Ridge. We enjoyed the street food at various stalls and when we decided to head back to the hotel at 8 pm. We booked a taxi in advance from the hotel for the next day tour. Taxi usually charge Rs.1500 to 2500 depending on season and sightseeing.

Day 2

We checked out from the hotel and started our trip by visiting Jakhoo temple on the top of the hill. It was worth going there but be aware of monkeys there.

We earlier decided to go to Kufri sightseeing but the driver suggested us to go Tatapani and Naldehra. After horse riding in Naldehra, we reached Tatapani for river rafting, the only reason to deviate from our plan but it was just a waste of money and time. They charged Rs.5000/couple but it was more like boating. In the evening, we headed to our resort- Kufri holiday resort which was the best thing happened to us on the whole day. Kufri was much cooler than Shimla and we realized it more because we didn’t pack for it but we enjoyed the weather and went for a short walk nearby.

Our room in Kufri

Day 3

It was a beautiful morning with a cool breeze. We had our buffet breakfast and checked out. Kufri is a small place with all sightseeing nearby so better you check out late and enjoy your morning at the resort. Later we visited a fun park and a zoo. The mini zoo was a waste of time and can be missed.

From there, we headed for our next stay on Kufri-Chail road. The idea was to cover Chail next day. Better you stay in Kufri. There are no good hotels on this road. Our hotel was in a small village where we couldn’t find the ATM and we were out of cash. We rested in our room the whole evening and night because there was nothing to do there, that’s another reason to stay in Kufri.

Day 4

We drive to Chail only to find more disappointment. There was nothing else to see other than Kali ka Tibaa and Chail Palace. The stadium was closed.

Chail Palace

Temple was very far away from Chail but was worth visiting as it has very beautiful surrounding but Palace was not worth for entry charges of Rs100.

near Kali Tibaa Mandir

After sightseeing, we returned to Shimla to conclude our journey, but we found a new place-Johnnie’s Wax Museum. It was on the mall road near our hotel.

I hope to visit Shimla again in winter to enjoy the winter activities and enjoy the Toy Train ride.

Few tips for fellow travelers –

  1. Plan the trip in January/February. You can enjoy snow activities like skating and skiing.
  2. Skip Naldehra/Tatapani trip. Better go Kufri.
  3. Book Kalka-Shimla train in advance.
  4. Book only 1-night accommodation in Shimla (near or on Mall Road) and rest of the stay in Kufri (away from the crowd).
  5. Bargain for everything- hotel, taxi, shopping, horse riding, sports adventures.
  6. Don’t do river rafting in Shimla and save your money for Rishikesh.

Ratings (it is subjective and based on personal opinion)

Destination overall rating 8/10 – Queen of hills has most happening Mall road, British era buildings, winter activities, famous street food, and amazing mountain view.

Expense 4/10 – Accommodation and transportation are costly as Shimla is very overpopulated, overcrowded and commercialized now.

Travel ease 7/10 – You can easily reach Shimla from Delhi/Chandigarh and taxi/cabs are easily available there for sightseeing.

Food 7/10 – It has some very famous cafes/restaurants and street foods.

August 13, 2019 Gwalior- Jhansi-Orchha-Khajuraho, India, Madhya Pradesh Post a Comment

Road trip to Gwalior- Jhansi-Orchha-Khajuraho

It was monsoon time and I was craving for a long road trip. We had covered almost all of the Rajasthan so I decided to plan a family trip to Madhya Pradesh. Though roads in MP are not great and three of us knew driving, I alone drove 1500 km over these 6 days.

Days required – 6-7 days

Nearby places to go – Panna National Park (closed in monsoon)

Best time to visit – after the monsoon or during winter (October to February)

How to reach

Make Gwalior entry and exit point for your trip as it is the major city with maximum connectivity.

By air – Gwalior and Khajuraho have airports but Khajuraho airport has very limited connectivity. Gwalior has direct flights from Delhi, Hyderabad, and Kolkata.

By train – Gwalior is well connected to all major cities.

By road – Gwalior is well connected by road. Roads are not as good as in other states. There are frequent bus services (govt. as well as private) to all nearby cities.

How we traveled – we did a road trip to Gwalior from Jaipur. It was 350 km journey.

If you don’t want to drive then you can always hire a cab. Reach Gwalior by flight or train then go further by cab or taxi.

Cheaper options will be using state transport to reach Jhansi and Khajuraho which will not be so comfortable but a budget option.

Where to stay

Gwalior – you have two options to stay there – one is the railway station area and the other is Lashkar area. If you don’t have a car, stay in Lashkar area. It is a little congested but near to everything.

If you have a car, stay away from the market area to avoid parking issues. You can cover distances easily with a car. No need to stay at the congested place. First, confirm with the hotel reception about parking before booking the hotel.

Jhansi – limited options for accommodation here. Book your stay near Civil lines. You can opt to stay in Orchha which is 30 minutes away from Jhansi and have many resorts.

Khajuraho – Surprisingly, this last stop of the journey had the numerous type of accommodations varying from backpackers’ hostels(Zostel) to luxurious stays like Clarks, Ramada, Radisson and The Lalit.

How to go around – If you have your vehicle then there is no worry else it is very easy to roam around Gwalior, Jhansi, and Khajuraho. You can easily find rickshaw, taxi, and cabs everywhere.

Places to visit

Gwalior

  1. Gwalior fort- Just like Chittorgarh fort, it is a very large fort located on a hill and it is advisable if you have a vehicle (own or hired) to explore it.

    Gwalior Fort
  2. Gujari Mahal Museum- This museum is near Qila gate. It can be avoided if you are exhausted by Fort tour.
  3. Tansen and Mohammad Ghaus Tomb- they are near Qila gate/Gujari mahal- better to take auto-rickshaw there or you will be stuck in the traffic(old city area)- a must-visit place for photographers otherwise can be missed if there is a shortage of time.
  4. Sun temple- Dedicated to the Sun God as the name suggests, the Sun Temple in Gwalior has close similarities to the legendary Sun Temple at Konark in Odisha. The temple adorns a breathtaking architecture and thus attracts tourists and devotees from all over the country in large numbers.
  5. Jai Vilas Palace-must visit place in Gwalior- this is the residence of the descendants of the royal Maratha Scindia family. The palace also serves as a museum stretched over 35 rooms, houses the Chitrangada Raje Art Gallery and a library. However, it is most popular for its enormous Darbar Hall that is beautified with gilded carvings. It is closed on Wednesday. Ask locals for directions for entry gate.

    Jai Vilas Palace

Jhansi

  1. Jhansi fort – situated in the heart of the city, this fort is the witness of the 1857 mutiny. Fort is not well maintained and there is renovation going on.

    Inside the Jhansi Fort
  2. Rani mahal – very near to the fort, it was the residence of Queen Laxmibai and was heavily damaged during the mutiny. This place is very poorly maintained by the government and can be missed.

    Rani Mahal

Orchha

  1. Orchha fort complex has three palaces – most magnificent is the Jahangir Mahal. This three-storeyed structure even today, retains its original grandeur. Raja Mahal is another flawless piece of art. Rai Parveen Mahal now ruins, once was a beautiful palace with the lush green garden surrounding it.
  2. Ram Raja Mandir – It is the only temple in India where Lord Rama is worshipped as a king, hence so named.
  3. Cenotaphs – these beautiful structures are built on Betwa riverside.
  4. Chaturbhuj Temple – this architectural marvel is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It is walking distance away from the Ram Raja Temple.

    Chaturbhuj Temple

Khajuraho

  1. Here are three groups of temples –

Most famous and nearest one are Western groups of the temples which are Hindu temples and they are most talked and most well-preserved temples of the region. You will need 2-3 hours here. No person is allowed to do puja here.

Western Group of Temples

Then comes the eastern group which are the Jain temples. They appear the same as the western group of temples but are worship place for Jain people. Some of them are preserved but many are damaged and some are being renovated.

Last is the southern group of temples- Duladeo and Charbhuja (only temple without erotic sculpture) temple which are Shiv and Vishnu temples. The 3rd one is still under excavation (maybe we get to visit more temples in the future after excavation work is completed).

Temple complex opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. Ask for timings. It is at 7 pm in the summers.

There is a sound and light show at Western group of temple premises after 7 pm. Ticket charges are Rs.250 per person but the show is not worthy of it and can be missed.

You will need a vehicle to cover all these places as they are far from other (few km only but not a walkable distance). Bargain well from local taxi/auto drivers.

  1. Raneh and Pandav waterfalls

Raneh, a must-visit place is 30 min drive from Khajuraho. On entrance, they charge you according to vehicle type(Rs.600 for a car) and there is guide fee-Rs.75. A guide will take you to falls, tell you the history and geography of the place. Raneh falls are natural. They are canyon formation which you will not find anywhere else in India. It is said that these canyons would have formed because of volcanic eruptions thousands and thousands of years ago.

Raneh Falls

Pandav fall is located in Panna National Park. If you have one more day then you should visit Panna National Park. It is closed in monsoon.

Where to eat

Gwalior – Try kachori at SS Kachoriwala and Bahadura’s Ladoo for breakfast and Lunch at Kwality Restaurant.

Jhansi – Dine at Navbharat or Haveli restaurant. Try snacks at Hot bites/ Narayan chaat bhandar

Khajuraho – Pizza at Raja cafe and Bella Italia.

Itinerary

Day 1 –

Reach Gwalior and check-in your hotel. Visit Jai Vilas Palace. In the evening, take a stroll around Sarafa Bazaar.

Inside Jai Vilas Palace

Day 2 –start your day early to reach Gwalior fort via Urvai Gate. It will take whole of your morning to explore the fort complex. On the way to the fort, you will find large Jain statues carved out of rocks(some are well preserved but most of them are ruined). After reaching the fort(uphill), a path to the right side lead to Scindia school(where entry is not allowed), Teli Mandir(oldest temple there but not well maintained( very beautiful from outside but reeks from inside) and Gurudwara. All these places have no entry fee. After strolling around these places, park your vehicle near Man Mandir Palace and main fort area. You have to pay for parking and entry here. On entry, you can take a guide here if you are interested in knowing the history of Gwalior and the royal family. Man Mandir Palace is the most beautiful and well-maintained palace here. Next, to it, there is Vikram Palace, Jahangir Palace, and Johar Kund, Chhatriyaas(cenotaphs) which are almost ruins. There is a different fee counter to enter this area. Pay the nominal fee to get a panoramic view of the city. After exploring the Palace area, visit Shahstrabhuja Temple better known as Saas Bahu temple (same entry ticket to be shown here for entry).

Saas Bahu Temple

Have your lunch at Kwality Restaurant. Visit Tansen and Mohammad Ghaus Tomb and Sun temple. Head for Jhansi in the evening. Jhansi is a 4-hour drive from Gwalior. Check-in your Jhansi stay and get rest.

Day 3

Reach Orchha early in the morning. It is 30min away from Jhansi. Park your vehicle and start your trip by paying a visit to Ram Raja Temple. Near to it, is magnificent Chaturbhuj temple. Orchha is photographers delight as it has many ruins and buildings. Most of them are not well preserved. Explore the fort complex. It takes 1-2 hours here. Have lunch and head back to Jhansi. Take rest if you have time or go to Jhansi fort as it closes at 5 pm. There is no need for a guide here.

Day 4 – Khajuraho is 4-hour drive from Jhansi. This small town has an airport, bus stand, and railway station but all are located far away from the main tourist attractions. You should start your tour with the western group of temples and end it with the southern group of temples. Skip the light and sound show.

Day 5 – visit Raneh waterfall in the morning and head back to Gwalior by noon. Rest for the day.

Day 6 – take flight/train or drive back to your city.

Few tips for fellow travelers –

  1. Don’t trust Google to reach a tourist spot. It will fail you again and again. Almost every place has two routes and Google will always tell you the short but wrong one. Ask locals for directions.
  2. There are two entry gates for Gwalior fort- one is Quila gate in the old city which is very congested. Go there if you don’t have your vehicle but you have to walk uphill to reach the ticket counter. Other is Urvai gate from where vehicles are allowed and is preferred by most of the tourists. Ask locals for directions as Google may not be helpful here.
  3. Go sightseeing in the early morning to avoid crowd and afternoon heat.
  4. It is better to first cover Orchha in the morning and after having lunch, go for Jhansi tour as there is not much to see other than fort which can be covered in evening.
  5. Take a water bottle with you. You will be exhausted exploring these large forts and temple complexes.

Ratings (it is subjective and my personal opinion)

Destination overall rating 7/10 – Orchha fort complex and Khajuraho temples are the star of the trip other than that most of the historic monuments were not properly maintained.

Travel Expense 2/10 – neither accommodation nor transportation is costly. You can easily manage this trip in your limited budget.

Travel ease 6/10 – Other than Gwalior, connectivity is an issue so you have to make Gwalior as an entry and exit point.

Food 7/10 – other than some lip-smacking street food in Gwalior, there was nothing special worth mentioning about food on this trip.

August 12, 2019 India, Kerala Post a Comment

Honeymoon trip to God’s Own Country

This was our first trip as a couple. We had no idea or experience of traveling. The language was the issue. It was totally unknown place for us so we booked the tour from a tour agency which had a fixed itinerary so we didn’t have much flexibility. Even then I will try to explain the tour and itinerary to fullest so that you don’t find any difficulty in planning your trip.

Days required– 7-8 days

Nearby places to go – Kerala has many destinations to explore, the list is endless but mentioning some of them. Kochi, Alleppey, Kovalam, Kozhikode, Kumarakom, Munnar, Thekkady, Wayanad, Trivandrum, Kanyakumari, Poovar Island, Varkala, Kollam.

You can plan to visit any of these cities, though the following two options are preferred more.

Option 1: COCHIN-MUNNAR-THEKKADY-ALLEPPEY/KUMARAKOM-TRIVANDRUM-KANYAKUMARI

This is the most preferred travel routes of Kerala as you get to experience a wide variety of what the area has to offer. We also opted for this tour and it is explained below in detail.

Option 2: OFFBEAT KERALA: WAYANAD, KANNUR, ATHIRAPILLY

Plan a trip to Kerala to visit offbeat alluring areas, unlike any others. Visit Wayanad, Kannur, and Athirapilly if you are interested in the lesser-known gems of Kerala. They all are on the northern-most end of Kerala.

The tropical setting of Wayanad is a perfect getaway, especially for honeymooners. Stay at the beautiful resorts there and wake up to the sound of the gushing waters and splendid view outside your villa.

Kannur is a much less explored town, known as ‘The Land of Looms and Lore’ because of its high-quality production and export of handloom fabrics. Explore the natural beaches, backwaters, hill stations, and historical monuments it has to offer.

If starting your trip in Mumbai or Delhi, fly into Calicut and drive to Wayanad or Kannur. From either of these towns, you can take a train to Cochin.

Athirapilly is a 1.5-hour drive from Cochin. Take a day trip or spend a night visiting the Athirapilly Falls, ‘The Niagara of India’, and you will be mesmerized by the breathtaking sites. The area is home to a host of wild animals and birds.

Best time to visit – after the monsoon and from October to February (December-January is the peak season and very costly too. Prices for the hotels, packages, and taxis go skyrocket so my suggestion is that you can opt for September and February as these are shoulder season and will very cost-effective. Kerala receives a good amount of rainfall in monsoon so it is not advisable to go in those months but after the monsoon, Kerala’s beauty is at its peak.

How to reach – Kochi (Cochin) and Trivandrum (Trivananthapuram) are the major cities of Kerala and usually, visitors and tour operators choose these two cities as entry and exit point for the trip. Ideally, your tour starts from Kochi and ends up at Trivandrum (most common and convenient option) but you can modify it according to your need.

By air – Both Kochi and Trivandrum have good air connectivity. Direct flights are available from all major cities. Book your tickets in advance as prices shoot up near peak season.

By train – Kerala has an extensive railway network with frequent trains connecting the state well with the rest of the country but it is usually not a good option for visitors from the northern part of the country as it will take 16-24 hours to reach here.

By road – It is a cheaper and convenient option for tourists from nearby states. You can book buses (govt. as well as private) from official govt. website or Redbus.

How we traveled – We booked the tour from Kochi to Kochi including sightseeing, stays, and meals. We booked flights well in advance but one mistake we did as inexperienced tourists is that we booked flights from Delhi to Kochi and Kochi to Delhi which I will explain why is an issue. The benefit was I got cheaper flights from Kochi to Delhi. Trivandrum flights are somewhat costly by Rs.1500-2500 but on the last day, we had to wake up early by 4 am to reach Kochi airport from Trivandrum which is a 5hours journey. If we had booked Trivandrum-Delhi flight that journey would have been just 30 minutes (I booked this flight by mistake but our tour operator dropped us at Kochi Airport at no extra cost).

Where to stay – We stayed at very good 3-star hotels arranged by our tour operator. All stays were located near the main market or an easily accessible area with all the amenities nearby. They all were very spacious, clean and the cherry on the cake was that they all had views from their balcony.

view from the hotel in Thekaddy

How to go around – Choose from numerous options such as road transport – bus, train, auto-rickshaw, taxi – to waterways such as ferry and boats. Kochi also has a Metro train facility.

The Kerala State Road Transport Corporation (KSRTC) and Kerala Urban Road Transport Corporation (KURTC) are the lifelines of the state. These are the cheapest and sometimes fastest means of transit. They are present in every city, town, and village, and reach the most remote corners of the state.

Within city limits, the best forms of travel are KSRTC ordinary buses and privately owned city buses which are available every minute at every stop in the state. Another option is the auto-rickshaw which are unmetered, so seek advice regarding the price from local people or Google the distance and bargain well.

Chauffeur driven cars are a good option to explore the city. This will cost you around Rs.1000-2000 for a day depending on the season and distance.

Ferries are an important part of the day to day life in backwater areas of Kerala. One can get ferries from Kochi to nearby islands.

Places to visit –

Kochi

Fort Kochi – Walk along Fort Kochi Beach which may be the only beach in the state where you can still find Chinese fishing nets. You can get your hands on them by paying a nominal fee.

Mattancherry ( Dutch Palace) is the spot in Kochi where Portuguese influence can be seen.

Kochi also has India’s largest shopping mall – Lulu Shopping Mall

Vypeen Island is a group of islands which is popular among visitors coming to Kochi & Kerala. It can be reached by ferry from Fort Kochi. Vypeen is also the location of Pallipuram Fort which is the oldest surviving fort in India built by European settlers.

Kodanad Elephant Training Centre is a village located on the way to Munnar. Watching elephants roaming free in this rescue center is a wonderful experience.

Hill Palace: It was the residence of erstwhile Maharaja of Kochi and was converted to a Museum in 1986. The museum complex exhibits crown and ornaments of Cochin royal family.

Munnar

Mattupetty Dam: One of the major tourist attractions in Munnar, this water reservoir is located around 13km from the heart of the hill station.

Kundala Lake: Nestled amidst rolling hills and mountains, this artificial lake is located around 20km from Munnar. Enjoy leisure activities like boating and explore the miraculous beauty of the region.

Top Station -Enjoy panoramic views of the Western Ghats and some of the most gorgeous valleys in Munnar.

Eravikulam National Park: Spread across 97sq.km, Eravikulam National Park is the home of endangered Nilgiri Tahrs and is among the must-visit places in Munnar.

Private vehicles are strictly not allowed within the park; visitors can take mini-bus rides conducted by the forest authority. Also, the park remains closed to the public during February to March as it is the mating season of Nilgiri Tahrs. Expect long queues on public holidays and weekends.

Tea Museum – You must visit the Tata Tea Museum in Munnar. From plucking the leaves to processing and packing them, you will get an opportunity to know more about the tea industry and reveal some of the most fascinating facts about this industry.

Pothamedu Viewpoint:  The drive to the Pothamedu Viewpoint takes you over an old bridge and narrow roads and the views during the drive are very scenic.

somewhere in Munnar

Attukad Waterfalls is a must-go tourist spot in Munnar where you can view a waterfall amidst hills and jungles and the road to reach the falls is amazingly beautiful.

Cheeyappara Falls is on the way to Munnar and flows down in seven steps making a great view from the road. It is also a great trekking point.

Blossom Park is situated near the Pallivasal hydro-electric project and you can enjoy activities like Cycling, boating.

Thekkady-

Periyar National Park should be the first place to visit in Thekkady. Sprawling over a densely canopied area of 925 sq.km, this wildlife protected area is an indigenous home to some of the rarest, exotic and endangered wildlife species in India.

Periyar Lake

Alleppey

Backwaters – The true beauty of Kerala lies in its different water bodies and most famous among all the water bodies is the backwaters of Alleppey and Kumarakom. You can enjoy this water body with the help of houseboats as it will give you a better and comfortable option to enjoy this place to the core. You must book these houseboats in advance otherwise you would not be able to hire one.

our Houseboat

Marari beach – This is the ideal destination for those people who are looking for an escape from their stressful and hectic lifestyle closer to the sea.

Krishnapuram Palace – This palace is an archaeological museum whose best attraction is a 49 square meter single mural painting which is titled as Gajendra Moksham.

Alleppey beach is among the most popular beaches in Kerala.

Vembanad Lake- This is the largest and longest lake in Kerala. There are numerous small lakes which eventually end up meeting in the Vembanad Lake making it the longest one and ever-flowing as well. The most famous boat race which conducts during the Onam festival happens to take place in this Lake.

Trivandrum

Kovalam Beach – most famous beach of Kerala –long coastline, Palms, a lighthouse near the shore and many water activities- make it a must-visit destination in Kerala.

Padmanabhaswamy Temple -Do not miss the famous corridor supported by three hundred sixty-five and a quarter pillars, all made of granite. You need to see this architectural marvel and craftsmanship that has gone into its making.

Napier museum showcases Kerala’s rich cultural heritage. Built during the colonial era, the museum has an extensive collection of rare artifacts, idols, ivory carvings, and ornaments.

Shanghumugham beach – A secluded beach, far away from the hassles of the city. It is an ideal getaway destination with white sand and calm sea. The gigantic statue of mermaid popularly called as ‘Jalakanyaka’ is the landmark of this beach.

Kanyakumari-

Vivekananda Rock Memorial

Take a 10-minute ferry ride from Kanyakumari beach

At the southernmost tip of the mainland

Thiruvalluvar Statue

Ferries to Vivekananda Rock Memorial stop at the Thiruvalluvar statue afterward if the tide permits. It’s possible to go inside the base of the statue and climb the stairs up to its feet for a superb view.

Visit 3000-year-old Kumari Amman Temple (also known as Bhagavathy Amman Temple) dedicated to Goddess Kanyakumari which sits by the sea near Triveni Sangam and has a beautiful black stone idol of the goddess.

Padmanabhapuram Palace

About an hour northwest of Kanyakumari, the town of Padmanabhapuram is a popular day trip with regal heritage. It was once the capital of the princely state of Travancore. The Palace is the largest wooden one in Asia. Its craftsmanship and architecture are admirable, especially the detailed woodwork on the walls and ceilings.

Suchindrum Temple –  situated 11km from Kanyakumari is built in Dravidian style. The temple has a strict dress code. Details are given below.

 

Itinerary –

Day 1

I suggest you to reach Kochi airport around noon so that you get to enjoy the evening in Kochi. We decided to go Munnar from there which is 4-hour journey as Kochi in February is very hot and humid. We skipped night stay in Kochi and consider Munnar for our night stay which was a good decision. On the way, we visited spice gardens and enjoyed the Elephant ride which was a new experience. We reached the hotel by evening and checked in our valley view room. We had our dinner at the hotel as we were very tired.

Day 2

Next morning, our driver was on time. We first visited the botanical garden (rose garden) then there was a photo stop at Tea gardens. After having lunch at a local restaurant, we headed for the Mattupetty dam and Kundala lake. The main attraction of the day was off-road jeep ride(not included in the package) which everyone should try. Cost is around Rs.2500-3000 for 3-4 hours covering the unexplored side of Munnar. Our driver Joseph was very charming Hindi speaking smiling person, he showed and guide us through villages, showed banana, coffee, cashew, and cardamom plantation on the way and was very friendly and a decent photographer and he earned his tip for the day. He dropped us at 7 pm at the hotel after a tea stop.

with Joseph uncle and his 4×4

Day 3

We checked out from the hotel the next morning and drove for Thekkady (4hour journey). On the way, we visited the Tata Tea Museum. The entry fee was Rs. 200 per person and you can enjoy a free cardamom tea along with the demonstration of the history of tea in Munnar. We got to visit the Tea gardens nearby with a nominal entry fee.

Tea Gardens

We reached Thekkady and checked in our hotel room which was far better, beautiful and bigger than the one in Munnar. And the view, we were just amazed to see the backside of the Periyar Reserve from our balcony (this view was equally scary after the sunset). We got ready for the Periyar visit. There is an entry fee for visitors as well as vehicle at Wildlife reserve and usually, there is a long queue for that and there are fixed timings for ferry tours. We were lucky to get tickets to the ferry but not lucky enough to spot any animal during the trip (except few elephants and buffaloes). The cool climate of Munnar was far gone as we were experiencing intense humidity in Periyar. We returned from there and relaxed in the balcony of our room enjoying the spectacular view of the jungle. The evening was very happening as we booked tickets for Kalaripayattu(Indian martial art and fighting system that originated in Kerala and practiced by warriors of Kerala and Tamil Nadu) show which is a Must-Watch. You can also see Kathakali show there but we were tired and skipped that.

Day 4

After checking out from the hotel, it was 4-hour journey to Alleppey for our much-awaited House Boat trip. I have discussed our Houseboat stay in a different blog. Do read it for all the details.

Day 5

We were again on road and by noon, we reached our hotel in Kovalam where we had our sea-facing room. We first decided to take a nap so that we could enjoy the evening at the beach. There are 3-4 beaches here in Kovalam – one was just outside our hotel. We later reached the Kovalam beach. Have you ever wished that you could freeze a moment and keep it forever? I caught the perfect moment, just before it flew away and locked it in my heart, it was us walking along the beach with our feet soaked in the sand and sea. We spent hours on the beach just enjoying the tides, chaos around us and sun disappearing in front of us. Filled with sand, soaked in saltwater, we reached our hotel and it was our 2nd best evening spent in Kerala.

Day 6

We never waste time on our trip. Early in the morning, we headed for Kanyakumari (2 hours from Kovalam). On the way, we visited Padmanabhapuram palace and Suchindrum Temple. It was our bad luck that because of high tides, ferries to Vivekanand Memorial were canceled but we were lucky enough to find a spot where we could click POTD, Photo of the Day. We were at the southernmost tip of the country. Tides were very high and the wind was so strong that we have to balance ourselves while standing there. We could see the Thiruvalluvar Statue and Memorial from there. We headed back to Kovalam after paying a visit to Kanyakumari Temple and spent evening again on the beach.

Padamanabhapuram Palace

Day 7

It was a long boring journey back home (Jaipur). As discussed above, we had booked flights from Kochi which was 5-hour journey from Kovalam. It was a wonderful journey and experience.

South Indian Food served on banana leaf

 

Quick tips for fellow travelers –

  1. Though language may be a barrier, Locals are very friendly and helpful.
  2. Try to eat at local restaurants, they serve the best South Indian food (we have heard some complaint from people that they had to eat Idli Dosa for a week but we both like South Indian cuisines. North Indian food is available easily but I doubt it will be tasty so better to avoid it. We always prefer to eat local cuisine because Roti-Daal-Aaloo is always waiting for us back at home).
  3. Avoid shopping if you don’t know what you are buying. Buy souvenirs for friends and family but be alert as shopkeepers usually try to make you pay more for nothing.
  4. While visiting temples, stay alert, don’t give a penny to anyone, they will recognize you from the crowd and hand you Malas, Thalis, and Prasad. We got 1-liter holy water for Rs.150. Please avoid these people. Simply visit the temple, pray and come out.
  5. Many temples have a strict dress code (eg. Suchindrum Temple). No exposed body parts for women. My wife was given a big cloth to cover her legs and men are given dhotis and asked to remove Shirts. Again there are charges for dhotis and lockers to put your stuff so follow the dress code and keep your belongings in your car.
  6. Always bargain for water activities during a beach visit. They will easily cut down price.
  7. For those who are first-time travelers, it is better to plan a trip through the tour operator as they will give you better deals with hotels, pick up and drop facility from hotel and airport, cover all main sightseeing. Trips can be customized as per your requirements, the distance between places is 3-4 hour journey daily and Language will be an issue while communicating to locals. Car and driver will be at your service from the point you enter Kerala and till you board your flight.
  8. For those who hate organized tours, exploring unknown is always an adventure. Always research well before your trip. Book your flights, accommodations, and transfers in advance. Check timings for monuments, museums, and other places.
  9. Always carry a good amount of cash.
  10. Do carry an umbrella to protect you from scorching heat and unexpected rains. Also, carry hats, sunglasses and sunscreen lotion.

Ratings (it is subjective and my personal opinion)

Destination overall rating 8/10 – Amazing place. Lovely people. Mesmerizing view. Perfect honeymoon destination.

Travel Expense 5/10 – major expenses are flights and the local transfers which can be cut down if you book flights in advance and use local transport. In peak season, everything is expensive. If you are on a leisure trip or honeymoon, then just enjoy the trip.

Travel ease 7.5/10 – it will be an issue if you want to cover many cities like a local because of the language barrier. You can self-drive and explore the unknown territories. Kerala has good intercity connectivity. If you have a chauffeur-driven car then just sit back and relax.

Food 8/10 – If you love South Indian food like us then it’s good. It’s not just Idli and Dosa. Try their thali, they have so many options to explore. Throw the spoon and use your hand that will enhance the flavors.

India, Maharashtra, Mumbai Post a Comment

A trip to City of Dreams

Mumbai – The City that never sleeps.

I planned this trip over a telephonic call with my friend who lives in Mumbai. Paaro was also surprised when I told her that we are going to Mumbai because usually, I take much time in planning and researching before any trip. This city has so much to explore and as always we had limited time but we somehow managed to utilize most out of it.

Days required – 5-7 days

Nearby places to go – Lonavala, Khandala, Mahabaleshwar, Pune

Best time to visit – monsoon and during winter (October to February)

How to reach – Mumbai is easily accessible by air, road and rail route.

By air – Direct flights from many cities are available.

By road – visitors from nearby states and cities can reach Mumbai by state/private buses.

By train – Mumbai is connected to all major cities in India by rail route.

How we traveled – we took a train from Jaipur to reach here. After reaching the station, hire a prepaid taxi from taxi booth or book Ola/Uber.

Where to stay – Stay in or close to South Bombay (locals call it SoBo) in Colaba, Fort area, Churchgate, Mumbai Central or anywhere close. Mumbai being a costly city, be ready to spend those extra bucks from your pocket even for the budget hotels. Pro tip: There are some alleged red light areas in Mumbai, try not to book a hotel in those areas if you are a couple because I think you won’t be comfortable. Staying close to a local train station has its perks of cutting your travel cost considerably.

How to go around – Best and economic way is Mumbai local train. It’s an experience in itself. It is also the fastest way to travel long distances. It will not be difficult to figure out your ride if you have the local train map and know where you want to go. Just avoid office hours if you want a fun ride. BEST buses can be taken for shorter distances and they have a big network connecting to almost everywhere.

Ola/Uber and Kaali-Pili taxis also run here but the drivers are very annoying. Yes, those jokes about taxi wallas are true. You really have to find a taxi guy who agrees to take you aboard for your destination.  They usually refuse to go to your destination.

Places to visit – Mumbai, as well as Nashik, has so many tourist attractions that it is impossible to cover them in a week. Also, there are also many places around Mumbai which need a trip of their own. It is difficult and tricky to select what to cover and what to miss.

  1. Elephanta Caves
  2. Taj hotel

    Iconic Taj Hotel
  3. Prince of Wales Museum
  4. Nariman Point/Marine Drive
  5. Girgaum Chaupatty
  6. Siddhivinayak temple
  7. Mahalaxmi temple
  8. Juhu Beach

    Juhu Beach
  9. Band Stand
  10. Tarapore Aquarium
  11. Maratha Mandir

Nashik

  1. Sula Vineyards
  2. Trimbakeshwar temple
  3. Pandavlini caves

Where to eat –

Merwan Bakery (opposite Grant road station(east)) – Mawa cake, Irani chai, Bun Maska pav

Kyani and Co.(marine lines) – Irani chai, Bun Maska pav

Olympia Coffee House(opposite Leopold Cafe)- keema pav

Sharma Ji and Badshah (Chowpatti) – Bhelpuri

Bademiya (near Gateway of India) – Kebabs, Rolls

Sarvi (Mohd Ali Road) – kebabs

Noor Mohammadi (Mohd Ali Road) – Chicken

Do try Mumbai daily snacks – Vadapav, Bhelpuri, Sevpuri, Bombay sandwich at Juhu beach and Girgaum Chowpatti and if you are a non-vegetarian, Mohd. Ali Road is food heaven for you.

Itinerary –

We had a fun time while in Mumbai in 5 days. We might have missed a few things but we tried to make the most of it. I can’t wait to share it all with you people. Read it on.

We took the Jaipur-Mumbai train which dropped us Mumbai central station which was near to our hotel. Trains coming from some regions arrive at Bandra Terminus or Lokmanya Tilak Terminus from where taxis can be hired to get to your location easily. Some trains will bring you to the Chhatrapati Maharaj Shivaji Terminus (commonly known as VT/CST) which is in SoBo.

Day 1

We left early in the morning from the hotel to try the very famous Merwan & Co. Bakery in Grant road area. These traditional Parsi eateries in SoBo are well acclaimed among the locals and are as old as Mumbai is and it shows in their ambience. After having breakfast at Merwan, we headed to the Gateway of India with my school friend Gagan who agreed to be our guide for the day.

Gateway of India

The iconic Taj Hotel and the whole arena of the Gateway of India start giving you historical vibes as soon as you enter its premises. Another piece of history awaits at the Prince of Wales Museum in the vicinity.

However, nothing here was as historical as the Elephanta caves which date back to 2nd century BC, primarily sculptured with Lord Shiva and some Buddhist stupa mounds. Being listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, it is now well maintained but most of the relics are not in very good shape due to damages done in old times. Located at an island about 10km offshore Mumbai, these caves can be accessed by ferries running to and fro from the Gateway. It takes 1.5 hours to reach the island. You can board to upper deck by paying Rs.10 and enjoy the ocean view. There is a toy train at the first entry point (Fare Rs.10) of the island that takes you to the village entry from where one has to walk to the caves. One can always walk through right from the start. It will be good if you have a hat for this trip to protect from the intense sun on some days of the year. For better understanding, you can hire a guide to explore the caves or you can visit on our own and read about it beforehand or later.

Elephanta Caves

Ferry fares: Rs 150-175 (Return fare)

Village entry ticket: Rs 10 (for all)

Caves Entry Ticket: Indians – Rs.10; Foreigners: Rs 250 (Foreigners)

It is better to visit here first in the morning and leaving the rest of SoBo for later. Spend a good 3-4 hours for this and come back by 3:30 PM to the Gateway. Small cafe/restaurants are there on the island, but eat only if you are starving otherwise save it for the lunch on the mainland. Have lunch at Leopold cafe (costly but very famous among foreigners and Indians) or Olympia (just opposite to Leopold and very economic).

From here, we took a cab for Nariman Point. Remember Munna Bhai, sitting sadly and then Circuit comes to tell him that he has topped the medical examination? This is that very spot this scene was shot with numerous others in Bollywood. This place connects directly to the sea and is usually closed by late evening because of high tides for security purpose. And an evening spent here can make anyone’s day complete. Nariman Point is one of the ends of the famous Queen’s necklace or Marine Drive. A stretch of almost 3km twinkling with lights, take a stroll with your beloved or just sit and enjoy the waves hitting the shore. The misty breeze flowing through your hair will make you forget the tiring day in a jiffy. Girgaum Chaupatty is another end of this necklace and is so lively till late at night. There is a small beach, however, we found it very dirty and one would not dare to go close to the waves. Although, you can enjoy an evening snack or a wholesome dinner at Chaupatty. We ate at Sharmajee’s and had a Kolkata pan as dessert. Another dinner option can be “Bademiya” famous for its chicken delicacies close to Gateway.

Marine drive

After spending some time at Chowpatty, we booked a cab for our hotel at 10:30 pm. It was late but we didn’t realize it as still there was traffic around and people were reaching Chowpatty for late-night snacks.

Day 2

Mumbai Darshan Bus tours are very good for a day trip in Mumbai and it covers most of the iconic places to give you the satisfaction of having seen it all. So, win-win for the travelers with a tight time schedule (though it doesn’t sound to be a good idea it did the trick for us).

The tour starts with the Gateway (yes, we went there again). Fortunate enough, we got the opportunity of clicking pictures here this time), then they provide some time for Prince of Wales Museum(tickets needed), ferry ride(which we skipped). The bus then takes you showing the places like Siddhivinayak Temple, Mahalaxmi temple, Juhu Beach, R City Mall, Red Carpet Wax Museum(tickets needed). And many attractions were seen from the bus because of the time restriction (bungalows of movie stars, Ambani’s Antilla, Sachin’s bungalow, Worli Sea Link, Police Headquarters, High Court, Marine Drive, Band Stand). This tour is to cover most of Mumbai in less time but if anyone has time, they can opt to visit these places at their own pace.

Must visit places- Gateway of India, Marine Drive, Juhu Beach, Band Stand, Worli Sea Link and Siddhivinayak Temple.

Day 3

We first went to visit Tarapore Aquarium which is near Churni Road station (Rs.60 per person entry fee). Most of the Mumbaikars and tourists haven’t heard about the place. It’s the oldest aquarium of India inaugurated by 1st President of India. Still undergoing renovation, it’s a small aquarium but it’s worth a visit. Take care of the timings, the place is open till 8 pm but tickets are available only before 5 pm.

From there we went to Maratha Mandir near Mumbai Central station and watched DDLJ (yes, I am Shahrukh’s fan and this is one of the main reason for this Mumbai tour). We had lunch nearby and took local to Bandra (we took suggestions and information of how one can travel in a local train safely from our friend Gagan. If you are new in Mumbai, and want to avoid this adventure ride then better hire a taxi). Outside the station, cabs/taxi will take you to Band Stand for approx. Rs.50. Bandstand has the residence of many movie stars including Shahrukh Khan (the 2nd reason for this trip). We stopped near “Mannat”. I have seen this bungalow in photographs and TV and here I was standing in front of its gate. Please read my separate blog about this experience. We spent the evening near Band Stand and called it a day slightly early as we had to travel to Nashik the next day.

In front of Mannat

Day 4

Today we had planned to visit Sula Vineyards in Nashik which is 180 km from Mumbai. You have many options to go there. Most common and comfortable one is to hire a cab which will cost you Rs4000-5000. You can also self-drive there. Take a bus but it takes much time.

Sula Vineyards

We took the train (Tapovan Express) which suited us best as it starts from CST at 6 am and reach Nashik by 10 am. In the evening, again this train departs from Nashik at 6 pm giving sufficient time to visit the city.

Cellar at Sula

We had booked a local cab in Nashik in advance for the city tour. The driver took us to Sula Vineyards which opens for visitors at 11 am. They have wine tasting tours starting from 11.30 am to 6.30 pm every hour. 30 min tour includes an educational tour about winemaking and tasting their 6 wines for Rs.375.

After Sula tour, we visited the famous Trimbakeshwar temple which is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas. Waiting time for Darshan can extend up to 1-2 hours depending on the crowd/occasion. Mobile phones/camera/leather belts are not allowed inside. They have baggage counter outside the temple to store the belongings.

Next, we stopped at the Pandavlini caves that were similar to caves in Elephanta. Located on a hilltop, the trek to the caves will drench you in sweat. But it’s worth your time and energy as the view from the top is eye soothing.

There was much more to explore in Nashik but we had to board our train to Mumbai.

Day 5

It was our last day in Mumbai. We decided to make it easy for us and went on shopping. We visited the Colaba Causeway market which has antiques, garments, artificial jewellery, etc. You can also visit Linking Road market and Fashion Street if you are more into shopping stuff.

 

Few tips for fellow travelers –

  1. Best time to visit Sula is mid-January to mid-march which is harvest time. At that time, we can see grapes in their fields and grape stomping is included in the tour.
  2. Remember that the last ferry for Elephanta Caves is around 2-3 pm from Gateway of India and around 5 pm back from Caves. Get an early morning ferry so that you don’t get sweaty in the afternoon and there is less crowd on the island. After 2 PM, they offer a ride in the sea on their ferry for around half an hour for a lesser price.
  3. Elephanta Caves are closed on Monday.
  4. If you are visiting Mumbai in Monsoon then it is better you don’t plan an itinerary. Rain here continues for hours and happens unexpectedly. But do plan an outing to Lonavala/Khandala/Mahabaleshwar that time.
  5. Always carry an umbrella, water bottle, sunglasses, and sunscreen.
  6. Ask for help if you want to travel on the local train. Avoid it during morning and evening rush hours.
  7. You can book Carnival bus service online. They have AC buses. Charges are nominal (Rs.350 per person). Entry charges are not included but you can pay them in advance so that you don’t have to stand in a queue for tickets but that is optional. There is a fixed time for visiting each attraction but it is more than sufficient. They have to follow a strict itinerary and timings so that all attractions can be covered in scheduled time.

Ratings (it is subjective and my personal opinion)

Destination overall rating 7/10 – mixed feeling on this as my intention for trip was different(I just visited Mumbai for DDLJ and Mannat).

Travel Expense 5/10 – yes, the city is expansive, no doubt on this.

Travel ease 8/10- Mumbai is a well-connected city and if you can travel in a local train then it is very economic to travel here.

Food 8/10 – you can get anything here and there is so much to try here that it is not possible to eat at all the eateries I have mentioned above.

India, Rishikesh-Haridwar, Uttarakhand Post a Comment

A trip to Rishikesh and Haridwar

After postponing for 2 years, we finally made this trip happen. We both were really excited for River Rafting activity. We will remember this trip for many reasons. This was our first backpacking trip. We used self-drive rental services for the first time and enjoyed the freedom of exploring the place at our pace. We stayed at riverside camps alone (we had stayed at these camps at Ladakh but that was a group tour).

Days required – 4 days. People from Delhi can easily manage the trip on weekends.

Nearby places to go – Haridwar

Best time to visit – after the monsoon or during winter. River rafting starts after September and usually closed in July(monsoon). Weather is hot and humid in summers.

How to reach –

By road – you can drive on your own or take a bus to reach Rishikesh.

By train – Haridwar is the nearest railway station and it’s a 30 min drive to Rishikesh.

By air – Dehradun is the nearest airport, but it will be an expensive alternate.

How we travelled – we took the bus from Jaipur which took around 12 hours to reach Rishikesh. Now more important thing – the bus will drop you on highway/Nepali farm which is 10-12 km from Rishikesh. There will be autos waiting in line for you. They usually take Rs.40-50 per head but will try to pull money from the pockets of the tourists, so need to be aware of this. They will drop you at Tapovan.

Where to stay – Tapovan area – all excursions are nearby. Rafting booking centres and bike rentals stations are easily available. Rishikesh is 5-6km away from Tapovan, so it is advised to stay here rather than staying in Rishikesh to save time.

view from our campsite

How to go around – Rent a bike which is easily available there and you get a helmet also(Rs.450-1250).

On the way to Shivpuri

Things to do

  • Ganga Aarti – Aarti is performed daily in the evening at Triveni Ghat, Parmarth Niketan Ashram and Har ki Paudi, Haridwar. You can go to any of these places. Reach early to get front seats to get a more desirable view. And to be obvious, other than rafting this is the only thing that one should not miss if visiting Rishikesh.
  • Yoga and Meditation classes – Patanjali Ashram, Parmarth Niketan
  • River rafting –a must-do activity- prices are fixed so almost same at every rafting booking point (one can easily find them in Tapovan area). Leave your extra luggage at their offices but carry your camera/phone. They do have a dry bag on the raft to keep your phones/camera safe and dry. They will take you to the starting point in their vehicles. After last rapid, they will stop at Maggi point where many vendors will be selling tea, Maggi etc. Rafting takes around 3-4 hours in total (office to office). Book 16km rafting which is from Shivpuri.

    Maggi Point
  • Other adventure sports that one can go for- Cliff Jumping or Bungee Jumping (Highest bungee jumping in India)/flying fox/swing. I am afraid of heights but Paaro wanted to try Bungee Jumping but she chickened out at the last moment.
  • Air safari by Air safari, Rishikesh
  • Night stay at riverside camps – a must-do activity

Places to visit–

  • Neergarh waterfalls – Reach to the top of the waterfall to eat Maggi with your feet dip in the water.

    Enjoy Chai and Maggi at Neergarh Falls
  • Neelkanth Mahadev Mandir (25 km from Tapovan) – ride your bike alongside River Ganga. You will see many riverside camps on the way. The view from the road is amazing.
  • Laxman Jhula

    Night view of Laxman Jhula
  • Terah (13) Manjil mandir

    Terah Manjil Mandir
  • Ram Jhula

    View near the Ram Jhula
  • Narendra Nagar/ Kunjapur Devi mandir
  • Har ki Paudi – Ganga aarti
  • Mansa Devi Mandir
  • Rajaji National Park

Where to eat – nothing special to mention here but you can go to the famous Chotiwala restaurant which I didn’t find interesting other than Human Mannequin (Chotiwala) with odd and heavy makeup sitting outside the restaurant. Food was ok but many people say it used to serve very delicious food in past.

Itinerary – it is very simple.

Day 1 – We reached Rishikesh in the morning where the bus dropped us at Nepali farm (10-12km far from Rishikesh). We took shared auto from there which dropped us at Tapovan/Laxman Jhula area (Rs.40-50). We hired the bike from the bike rental services (They ask for your ID, licence and security money) and reached our camp on Shivpuri road. After checking in and taking the shower, we went to Neergarh waterfalls. After that, we rode to Neelkanth Mahadev Mandir (25km from Tapovan).

After returning to the camp, Bonfire and evening snacks were arranged for us. We had our dinner early and went to sleep as we were very tired.

Day 2– Next day, we checked out from camp and reached rafting office (we had booked for rafting in advance). It was almost noon when we reached back to our hotel. That was the best rafting experience for us. In the evening, we rode to Laxman Jhula area and visited Terah Manzil Mandir. Then we went to Ram Jhula. Just a walkaway, there was a famous Chotiwala Restaurant.

Chotiwala Restaurant

We went to Parmarth Niketan for Ganga Aarti which is performed by residents and students of the Ashram. It starts around sunset. Be there before time.

Ganga Aarti at Parmarth Niketan

Day 3 – Haridwar visit- we drove to Haridwar and visited Har ki Paudi where the holy bath was taking place, and in the evening, Ganga Aarti is performed there. Nearby is Mansa Devi mandir. The ropeway is there to reach the top of the hill where the temple is located.

Just 10min drive from there, Rajaji National Park is there which is famous for Tiger safari. We reached Chilla gate where booking counter was there. There are 2 safaris-one in the early morning and another one in the evening. Go 1-2hours prior and book the tickets for jeep safari. The booking system is very mismanaged here. Seating capacity of Jeep is for 6 persons, so we shared the Jeep with a family. It’s just pure luck that you get a jeep for safari. The route for safari is fixed and marked. They will take you around the jungle on that route which is about 8kms.

Safari in Rajaji National Park

Day 4- There was not much left to see around Rishikesh, so we went to a place 15kms from Rishikesh, Narendra Nagar which is on the route to Kunjapuri Devi mandir. The road was under construction at that time. But after Narendra Nagar, the ride was very scenic and worth driving till we reached the temple. One can opt for activities like Bungee jumping and air safari instead of this.

On the way to Kunjapuri Devi Temple

In the evening, we took shared auto for Nepali farm (take a margin of 60-90min before the bus departure) for our bus to Jaipur.

Few tips for fellow travellers –

  1. Book your activities in advance to save time. Sometimes you can get discount offers if you book slots through their websites(Jumpin heights and Air Safari)
  2. Rajaji park is not well managed as Ranthambore or Jim Corbett and wildlife sighting is also poor so if you don’t have time then you can avoid Haridwar tour.
  3. While renting a bike, make a video of the vehicle in front of the owner so that he cannot blame for any damage that was done in past. Always use a helmet.
  4. There is only one petrol pump in Tapovan so fill the tank accordingly.

 

Ratings (it is subjective and per my opinion)

Destination overall rating 8/10 – if you are here for fun activities, you will love it as they have the best rafting in India. They have the highest bungee jumping there. You will enjoy the night stay at a riverside camp. If you are here for religious activities, then this is the place for you.

Travel Expense 2/10 – other than activities, everything is quite reasonable there.

Travel ease 8/10 – reaching Rishikesh is very easy and once you rent a vehicle there, you can go anywhere.

Food 5/10 – average food. Nothing special to mention here. We may have missed local food on this trip.

Dalhousie, Himachal Pradesh, India Post a Comment

A short trip to Mini Switzerland of India

Days required– 3 days

Nearby places to visit – Sach Pass, Chamba, Dharamshala/Mcleodganj

Best time to visit – Anytime during the year but try to avoid in June (summer breaks = heavy traffic and overcrowded) but after the monsoon it is preferable. To witness the snowfall, visit in January and February. Although Sach pass is closed in winter.

How to reach –

By road – Most preferred route. Buses from Chandigarh, Delhi, and Pathankot are available.

You can self-drive the car, but it is recommended to avoid the same as hilly areas usually have narrow, steep roads and parking issues. Sometimes during peak season roads gets closed for four-wheelers to curtail the traffic.

By train – Nearest station is Pathankot from where you can take bus/taxi to reach Dalhousie.

How we traveled – We boarded the bus from Delhi ISBT. Usually, buses run in the evening so that you can reach there in the morning and not much of your day is wasted in traveling.

Where to stay – Book your hotel near Gandhi Chowk or Bus stand so that you don’t have to lift heavy luggage with you as the Taxi to your hotel which may be around 1 km could cost you approx. Rs 200-300. Also, you should be good at bargaining too.

How to go around – You can walk around the main market/Gandhi Chowk area but most of the sightseeing is far away from the city center so you have to hire a taxi. Bargain well to get the best deals.

 

Places to visit–

Khajjiar – A must visit place which is 21 km from Dalhousie, known as the Mini Switzerland of India, it is situated at an altitude of 1,951 m in the foothills of the Dhauladhar ranges of the Western Himalayas and is part of the Kalatop Khajjiar Sanctuary. Khajjiar is a picturesque spot with an emerald saucer shaped meadow amidst a dense forest which has a lake with a floating island at its centre.

Dainkund Peak– Also known as the singing hill, 17 km from Dalhousie Bus Stand, it is the highest mountain peak in Dalhousie. Tourists can enjoy a 360° view of the entire valley from this peak. This peak has two major attractions; one is the Indian Air Force base (which require permission) and the other one Pholani Devi temple which has nothing except a trident inside the temple. Do visit here for the amazing view.

view from the Dainkund peak

Chamera Lake – 26 km from Dalhousie, it is an artificial lake formed by the Chamera Dam on the Ravi River, nestled in a valley amid pine forests, Himachal Pradesh Tourism department has built a boathouse adjacent to the lake which has facilities for water sports like river rafting, motor boating, canoeing, kayaking, pedal boats and rowing boats.

Panchpula/Satdhara – near to the town, this place is equally famous among locals as well as tourists. You will enjoy the waterfalls, gushing streams and panoramic views of hills and forests that surround the area. On the way to Panchpula, you must give a pause at Satdhara falls. If you love photography, I am sure this scenic place will treat you with some amazing camera shots.

Subhash Baoli – Do stop by at this historical place not just to enjoy the beautiful views but also to pay your respect to great freedom fighter Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose.

Somewhere on the way

Garam Sadak – Stroll through the ‘Garam Sarak’ connecting Subhash Chowk and Gandhi Chowk. Enjoy the beautiful Tibetan wall painted through the way, and a combo of roadside Chai & Maggi adds up to this beautiful way.

Rock Garden

Sach pass – open only from June to October, not easily accessible. Hire a cab to reach there. It will be an adventurous trip with bad roads/ no roads, risk of landslides, snow, and greenery around.

Where to eat – There are lots of street food joints and eateries around Gandhi Chowk to enjoy.

  1. Cafe Dalhousie – perfect breakfast destination for a budget traveler.
  2. Old Sher-E-Punjab – don’t get confused as there are 3 restaurants by the same name. Look out for “old” one or ask the locals.
  3. Kwality Restaurant – one of the oldest and best in the business.

Itinerary –

Day 1

We reached the Dalhousie bus stand at 11 am after a night journey from Delhi. Our hotel was just a walk away but because of luggage, we preferred a taxi. Taxi union works here, and they cost a fortune for small distances. We paid Rs150 for getting to our hotel which was just1km far from the bus stand. We checked in to the hotel, took a bath and booked our ride for the day. We covered Subash baoli, Panjpulla, Dainkund and Khajjiar.

In the evening we reached the market place, Gandhi chowk for window shopping and to have snacks.

Day 2

We started our day for Chamba city which was a long drive of around 3-4 hours to visit the famous Laxmi Narayan temple which was closed at that time (be informed about the timings).

Then we went to the Bhuri Singh Museum. After having lunch nearby, we headed back to Dalhousie. On our way back, we visited Bhadrakali Mandir and a hanging bridge. You will get some beautiful view and photographs as you will drive along the river Ravi.

If you are running out of time, then you can avoid this journey and just visit Chamera lake.

We stopped at lake Chamera for boating. On a suggestion, we opt for speed boating instead of the usual pedal boat which was more fun. You will get Maggi and chai nearby lake. On the way back to Dalhousie, you will get to see another nice and decent place that is Rock garden. Spend an hour there for some fresh air and some good photograph. Spend your evening shopping near Gandhi chowk or go for Garam Sadak stroll.

Maggi to banti hai

Day3

This was our last day here, so we visited the famous St. John church, St. Patrick’s church. You can book Sach pass tour if it is opened at that time.

It’s all about the views

Quick tips for fellow travelers –

  1. Book accommodation and transportation in advance.
  2. The bus will pick/drop you at the bus stand which is a very known and busy place. Taxi counters, grocery stores, and departmental stores are nearby.
  3. Be in habit of walking around in these places – taxis are way too expensive also one gets a real feel of the place only when you walk around the place.
  4. Carry extra cash as ATMs are at very great distances even from Gandhi chowk(one was out of order that time).

Ratings (it is subjective and based on my opinion)

Destination overall rating – 8/10 – the place is quite beautiful. Khajjiar is a nature lover’s heaven.

Travel Expense – 3/10 – accommodation and travel are expensive. Hiring a cab will cost you Rs.2000-3000 depending on the season and your bargaining skills.

Travel ease – 6 /10 – 12-hour bus journey from Delhi. Roads are steep. Reaching to your hotel is a tiring task.

Food 6/10 – I didn’t try any local dish. One can go for their local wines, but I didn’t like them much.

 

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